Growing Trophy Bass Starts with Bluegill Nutrition:
The Science Behind Automatic Fish Feeders, and What Separates Good Ponds from Great Ones. Let's dive in!
A few springs ago I was on a golf trip down in Georgia with a group of my close friends. We stayed at a secluded AirBNB cabin on a beautiful lake just outside Augusta. GOLF HEAVEN. But don’t get me started on that… This property was the kind of quaint cabin that makes you slow down without realizing it. Mornings stretched longer, evenings lingered, and the water carried that quiet weight that only lake-life seem to have.
The dock had a fish feeder mounted at the end of it, aimed cleanly out over open water. Nothing dramatic about it. Just a well-placed, directional unit that the owner mentioned went off every evening at six. He said it casually, like he was mentioning the sprinkler schedule.
Now, as many of you probably are, I’m that guy who always has a fishing pole in his truck. Ask my wife. Road trips regularly turn into “quick detours” when I spot a random gravel pond off the highway that looks like it might secretly hold a five-pound bass behind a run-down Burger King in the middle of Iowa. (Hint, it usual does not…) Anyway, after the home owner mentioned the fish feeder to me. I was immediately interested.
Long story but stick with me here…
So I did what any responsible adult would do, grabbed a few beers and wandered down to the dock to to shoot the shit with the guys. Mostly to catch the sunset and listen to them tell stories about their last golf outing that I new they were blatantly lying about. Typical golfer stuff. But I was specifically interested to see whether this fish feeder actually did anything impressive.
The water was calm and glassy, the sky fading toward orange, and everything felt still. Then, a few minutes before six, something subtle changed. Fish began appearing beneath the surface. Not reacting. Arriving. Thick bluegill slid in from deeper water and hovered in loose clusters. A few larger fish cruised along the edges, moving slowly but deliberately. There was no feed in the water yet. No motor noise. They were early.
That was the moment it registered. These fish had been conditioned. The same way as kids we all came running home when mom rang the big bell on the porch just before dinner. They were not responding to feeder itself; they were anticipating dinner.
At exactly six o’clock the feeder came alive. The motor hummed, pellets arced outward in a wide pattern, and the surface erupted. Big bluegill flashed copper in the fading light. Bass rolled just beneath them. The water transformed from stillness to controlled chaos in seconds, and it happened with mechanical precision. The most remarkable part was not the number of fish. It was the timing. It happened every evening, like clockwork. By the third night I found myself planning my evening around six o’clock, because watching that water come alive was better than anything on television.
What stayed with me was not just the spectacle. It was the realization that none of it was accidental. Someone had decided that this section of lake would operate on a schedule. They had installed that feeder, programmed it consistently, adjusted it over time, and in doing so, trained wild fish to show up early for dinner. It was not luck. It was management.
Once you see fish gathering fifteen minutes before a feeder goes off, it becomes difficult to look at your own pond the same way. You start thinking less about hope and more about intention. That is where automatic fish feeders shift from being an accessory to becoming a tool. And if you are going to use that tool, it helps to understand exactly how it works, what the research says, how to avoid the common mistakes, and how to turn six o’clock into something predictable in your own water.
Apologies for the long intro, but its hard explain how damn cool these machines are. If you are a fish nerd like me, and any body of water bigger than a kids swimming pool makes you want to toss in a line, you need to keep reading.
Do Automatic Fish Feeders Actually Work?
Short answer. Yes.
Longer answer. Yes, but probably not in the way most people picture it.
A lot of folks assume installing a fish feeder automatically turns their bass into pellet-eating linebackers. That is not how this works. In most traditional bass and bluegill pond systems, it is the bluegill that hammer the floating feed. The bass are not lining up at the buffet. They are hanging back, watching the grocery store get restocked.
And that is the point.
When bluegill consistently receive supplemental nutrition, they grow faster, maintain better body condition, and in many cases become more abundant. Healthier bluegill means a stronger forage base. A stronger forage base supports heavier bass over time. It is not flashy. It is not overnight. It is steady, biological leverage.
You are not buying instant trophies. You are strengthening the food chain.
What feeding actually accomplishes is pretty straightforward. It increases bluegill growth rates. It improves overall forage body condition. It allows the pond to support more total fish weight. And maybe most interesting of all, it creates consistent feeding zones that condition fish behavior.
That last part is what I saw on that Georgia dock.
Fish do not just react to feed. They learn the schedule. They show up early. They anticipate. They organize themselves around that timing. And once you have fish showing up before the motor even spins, you have introduced structure into a system that is otherwise unpredictable.
That predictability is powerful.
The Research
If you are wired like me, at some point you stop asking whether something looks cool and start asking whether it is measurable.
One of the most cited studies on supplemental feeding in bass and bluegill ponds was conducted by Dr. Claude Schmittou at Auburn University. The setup was simple. Similar ponds. Similar stocking. Similar management. The main difference was that some ponds received pelleted feed while one pond served as an unfed control.
The results were not subtle.
Bluegill in the fed ponds were significantly heavier than those in the control pond. Total fish production, measured in pounds per acre, was materially higher in the fed systems. Standing biomass increased, meaning the ponds could support more total fish weight. Condition factors, which measure how thick a fish is relative to its length, improved in the fed bluegill populations.
In plain English, the fed ponds produced thicker bluegill and supported more fish.
Later research published in the North American Journal of Fisheries Management reinforced that supplemental feeding improves bluegill size and reproductive output when increased growth is the objective. This is not anecdotal dock talk. It is documented biology.
Now here is the responsible part that does not get enough attention.
Feeding adds nutrients to the system. Uneaten pellets do not disappear. They decompose. And when you consistently add nutrients without discipline, you can fuel algae growth and water quality issues. Feeding is powerful. And power without discipline is how you turn a healthy pond into a science experiment you did not intend to run.The good news is that disciplined feeding is not complicated. It just requires attention.
And if you have already read this far, you are probably the kind of person who pays attention.
The Slab Lab Is Proof This Works
If you’ve never seen a true trophy bluegill, go look up Sarah Parvin and The Slab Lab.
We’re not talking “nice hand-sized.” We’re talking coppernose bluegill with shoulders. The kind of fish that make you blink twice and say, “That’s a bluegill?” Three-pound class fish. Absolute slabs. And they didn’t happen by accident.
At The Slab Lab, consistent feeding (including Texas Hunter directional feeders) is part of the system. High-quality nutrition, year after year, building fish that don’t just survive… they bulk up.
When bluegill get fed like that, they don’t stay palm-sized. They start looking like something out of a record book. Sarah has a goal to grow the state record, and she is well on her way!
That’s what intentional nutrition can do.
How Fish Feeders Work (And Why Quality Matters)
At their core, automatic fish feeders are mechanically simple. A hopper holds the feed. A timer determines when it dispenses. A 12-volt motor spins either a throw plate or powers a blower assembly that projects pellets outward. A battery, often supported by a solar panel, keeps the system running without daily attention.
That simplicity is deceptive.
The difference between a premium feeder and a bargain unit is not in how they are built on paper. It is in how consistently they perform over time. In pond management, consistency is everything.
A strong motor ensures pellets are thrown the same distance every day, not ten feet one evening and twenty the next. Reliable directional dispersion spreads feed across open water instead of dumping it straight down, which reduces crowding and improves utilization. A well-sealed hopper prevents humidity from turning pellets into clumps that bridge inside the feeder and block flow. A precise digital timer allows small adjustments in feeding duration, which is critical when you are fine-tuning growth without overfeeding. Durable steel construction matters because these units live outdoors year-round and must handle heat, moisture, wildlife, and wear without warping or corroding.
In short, quality feeders remove variability from the equation.
Fish respond to rhythm. If dinner shows up on time, in the same place, at the same volume, they adapt. When dispersion changes or feed delivery becomes inconsistent, the system loses structure. Over weeks and months, those small inconsistencies compound.
You are not buying complexity. You are buying reliability.
And when your goal is to build predictable feeding behavior and measurable growth, reliability is not optional.
Let’s Talk Gear: Automatic Fish Feeders
For most private pond owners, the 125 pound class feeder sits right in the sweet spot. It is large enough to support a consistent feeding program on a three-quarter to three-acre pond without constant refilling, but not so oversized that feed sits in the hopper long enough to absorb every ounce of summer humidity.
If the 125lb units seems small to you, we have fish feeder models all the way up to nearly 500lbs. This is the category where the most serious recreational managers land.
If you are going to invest in a quality feeder, two names come up immediately: Texas Hunter and Sweeney. Both are established. Both are proven. Both are built for real-world conditions rather than backyard novelty.
The difference comes down to philosophy and application.
Texas Hunter Directional Fish Feeders
Texas Hunter feeders feel like equipment. Heavy-gauge galvanized steel, powder-coated finish, solid construction throughout. The 125 lb directional model is one of our most popular models and it uses a centrifugal blower assembly that disperses feed in a wide wedge pattern, often reaching roughly 45 feet in length and around 20 feet in width under ideal conditions.
That directional throw is not just impressive to watch. It matters biologically. Spreading pellets across open water reduces fish crowding directly under the feeder and improves feed utilization across more of the population.
Key Features
- Heavy-gauge galvanized steel construction
- Powder-coated weather-resistant finish
- Centrifugal blower system for wide wedge dispersion
- Programmable digital timer
- 12-volt battery with solar compatibility
- Great customer service (HUGE plus in my book)
Sweeney Directional Fish Feeders
Sweeney has been building feeders since your grandpa was learning to tie his shoes. Their products are hardcore and reliable. The 125 lb directional model comes in 2 colors, Galvanized steel and hunter green. They also have a dependable motor system that handles a wide range of pellet sizes.
If you’ve been considering pulling the trigger on a new automatic fish feeder, we are currently offering FREE SHIPPING on the Sweeney 125lb models through the end of February 2026.
Where Sweeney stands out is adaptability. The brains of the Sweeney feeder offer a bit more options than Texas Hunter. Adustable throw distance and double the amount of available schedule feeding time. But honestly, you wont need that feature. If you are feeding more that 3-5 times a day, we need to talk.
Call me crazy here, but my favorite feature of the Sweeney is the hinged lid on the units. You would be surprised at how many replacement lids we sell for some other brands. Easy fix for those other units, but still a nice added benefit on the Sweeney in my book
Key Features
- Adjustable feed throw distances
- Reliable directional dispersal system
- Multiple programmable feeding cycles
- Flexible bank and dock mounting options
- Solar-ready configuration
Buyer’s Guide: Choosing Between the Two
This decision is rarely about which feeder is “better.” It is about which one fits your water and your management style.
Both brands are proven. Both will grow fish if programmed correctly. It really comes down to a Ford vs. Chevy type situation. If you find yourself leaning one way or another, go for it. You will not go wrong with either.
Remember, these feeders are investments, and if you take care of the properly you can plan on them lasting decades. And once you see fish showing up fifteen minutes early for dinner, you will appreciate quality equipment that performs the same way every single time, year after year.
Solar Power
I’m going to keep this section short and sweet. BUY THE SOLAR CHARGER. Just do it. Thank me later.
Need more convincing? Ok. I recently chatted with a customer that needed to replace a motor in his feeder. He was a nice guy so we chatted a while. I asked him how long have had this feeder. He mentioned that he had this fish running for 16 YEARS without changing the battery, touching the timer, or doing anything except refilling it. He even let it run empty over the winters! The solar charger kept it powered for 16 and never quit.
Buy the solar charger.
Dock or Bank Mount? Placement Shapes Everything
TLDR; Here is the practical distinction.
- Dock mount if you want maximum control over dispersion and easy monitoring and you have enough space on the dock.
- Bank mount if dock access is limited or terrain dictates shoreline placement, but plan carefully for wind and vegetation.
One of the most overlooked decisions in feeder setup has nothing to do with brand or capacity. It is placement. Where you mount the feeder determines how effectively feed is dispersed, how efficiently fish utilize it, and how much waste you unintentionally create.
A dock-mounted feeder naturally lends itself to directional control. Because the unit sits over open water, you can aim the throw pattern away from structure and vegetation. This allows pellets to land in clean water where fish can feed comfortably without diving into weeds or silt. Dock mounting also makes observation easier. You can stand directly above the feeding zone and evaluate response, pellet distribution, and crowding in real time. If your pond has a stable dock positioned over appropriate depth, this is often the cleanest and most efficient setup.
Pro Tip: Do not place a feeder with bank legs on the dock. That is a easy recipe for a stubbed toe and a whole mess of swear words.
A bank-mounted feeder requires slightly more thought. Shoreline slope, prevailing wind direction, and vegetation density all matter. If pellets consistently blow back onto shore or into heavy weeds, waste increases and wildlife participation follows. Stable legs and proper leveling are critical on uneven terrain. Bank mounting works extremely well when aimed properly into open water with sufficient depth, but it demands more thought during installation.
The #1 Question We Get:
How Much Should You Feed Fish in a Pond?
If there is one decision that determines whether a feeding program builds better fish or slowly creates water quality problems, it is this one. Feeding is not about volume. It is about utilization. The goal is not to dump as much feed as possible into the pond. The goal is to convert pellets into growth efficiently.
The most reliable rule in pond feeding is simple and practical. Feed only what your fish will consume within five to ten minutes. If pellets are still floating after fifteen minutes, you are feeding too much. If pellets disappear almost instantly and fish continue searching aggressively, you likely have room to increase slightly. This approach works because it ties feeding directly to fish response rather than guesswork.
A conservative starting schedule works in most ponds. One to two feedings per day at three to six seconds per feeding is a safe entry point for many three-quarter to two-acre systems. The exact number of seconds is less important than what happens on the surface. Different feeders throw different volumes per second, and pellet size changes output. The pond’s response is the only metric that matters. Increase duration slowly and only when feed is consistently consumed cleanly.
Overfeeding reveals itself subtly at first. Pellets linger longer than they should. The water near the feeding zone develops a slight haze. Algae begins responding more aggressively. Fish sometimes appear less enthusiastic despite higher feed volumes. Research and extension guidance consistently warn that uneaten feed increases nutrient loading, and nutrients fuel algae. Feeding is not the problem. Excess feeding is.
Underfeeding, while less dangerous, slows progress. If fish are clearing feed instantly every day and your goal is accelerated forage growth, incremental increases may be warranted. Growth responds to availability, but those adjustments must remain disciplined and gradual.
How Often Should You Feed?
Consistency matters more than intensity. Multiple smaller feedings often improve nutrient utilization compared to a single large feeding because fish digest and convert more efficiently when feed is distributed. Aquaculture research on sunfish and hybrid bluegill supports the idea that feeding frequency can influence growth rates and size uniformity.
For recreational ponds, begin with one to two feedings per day. If fish respond aggressively and water quality remains stable, testing two to three smaller feedings can be effective. The key is maintaining clean consumption within that five to ten minute window.
When Should You Feed?
Timing should follow fish behavior, not habit. Most ponds show the strongest feeding response during early morning and late afternoon or evening, when metabolism and surface activity are stable. Midday feeding can work, but during extreme summer heat dissolved oxygen levels fluctuate and feeding response may decline.
Seasonally, feeding should ramp up gradually in spring as water warms and fish become active. Early summer often provides the strongest growth window. During peak summer heat, careful observation is critical. As water cools in fall and feeding response slows, duration should taper. When fish stop responding consistently, feeding should stop rather than continue out of routine.
What Should You Feed?
Floating pellets are preferred in most private ponds because they allow you to monitor consumption visually. Visibility equals control. Sinking feed removes that feedback loop and increases the risk of unnoticed waste.
Protein content should match the purpose. In supplemental feeding programs, extremely high protein levels are unnecessary because fish still rely on natural forage. Moderate protein formulations are typically sufficient for supporting growth without excess.
Pellet size matters more than many realize. Pellets that are too large limit participation from smaller bluegill, reducing overall utilization. Matching pellet size to the dominant forage class increases efficiency and growth consistency.
As far as recommended brands, Purina seems to be a go-to feed among most our customers. But at the same time, I’ve worked with many customers that use the inexpensive brown bag/no label feed and their ponds still hold some seriously impressive fish, I’m talking bluegills with foreheads bigger than Payton Manning. No offense Payton. I’m sure you are reading this.
Your #1 rule. DO NOT LET THE FEED GET WET INSIDE THE HOPPER!
Remember those toys we had as kids that expand 100x their size the you put them in water? Now imagine 100,000 of those in one container. Ya, it becomes a mess, clogs the chute, and can ruin the motors. Not to mention the cleanup. Keep that lid shut and you will be fine.
Common Questions, Answered Honestly
Will feeding cause algae?
Feeding itself does not cause algae. Overfeeding does.
Pellets that are consumed efficiently are converted into fish growth. Pellets that sit uneaten decompose and release nutrients into the water column. Nutrients fuel algae. It is that simple.
If you follow the five to ten minute rule and adjust feeding based on real-time fish response, algae risk remains manageable.
Can feeding cause fish kills?
Indirectly, yes, but not in the dramatic way people sometimes imagine.
Feeding increases biomass over time. More biomass means more oxygen demand. During periods of extreme heat, dissolved oxygen levels can fluctuate. If you are aggressively feeding in hot conditions without paying attention to fish behavior or water clarity, you can stress the system.
The solution is not to avoid feeding altogether. It is to monitor intelligently. If fish response weakens during heat waves, reduce feed. If you are running a heavy feeding program, consider aeration for added stability. Feeding responsibly does not create fish kills. Ignoring oxygen demand can.
Do bass eat pellets?
In most traditional bass and bluegill ponds, very little.
Bass benefit indirectly. They feed on bluegill and other forage that have improved body condition due to supplemental nutrition. You are strengthening the grocery store, not handing bass a fork and knife.
There are exceptions in feed-trained systems, but in most private ponds, the growth effect is indirect and biological.
When should I stop feeding?
When the fish stop eating.
This is where observation beats habit. As water temperatures drop and metabolism slows, feeding response declines. If pellets remain uneaten or fish ignore them consistently, shut it down. Feeding out of routine when fish are not actively consuming feed simply increases nutrient load. Let the fish tell you when they are done.
How long before I see results?
You will see behavioral results almost immediately. Fish begin associating the feeder with food quickly. Surface activity becomes predictable within days.
Visible improvements in bluegill body condition typically take one growing season. Noticeable improvements in bass condition depend on forage growth, harvest management, and time. Feeding accelerates progress, but it does not override biology.
Patience still matters.
How many feeders do I need per acre?
For many ponds in the one to two acre range, a single well-placed feeder is sufficient. In larger ponds or irregular shorelines, multiple feeding zones often improve distribution and reduce crowding. Spreading feed over multiple areas allows more fish to participate and reduces dominance by larger individuals.
Is feeding worth it for a small pond?
It depends on your goals.
In smaller ponds, feeding can accelerate bluegill growth and improve fishing consistency. However, small systems are also more sensitive to overfeeding. Discipline becomes even more important. When managed carefully, feeding can have noticeable impact even in ponds under one acre.
Do I need aeration if I feed?
Not always, but aeration adds stability.
If you are feeding aggressively in warm climates or managing for higher biomass, aeration helps buffer oxygen fluctuations and reduce risk during heat stress. Think of aeration as insurance for more intensive management.
Recommended Feeding Programs
Feeder capacity and schedule should match the scale of your water. Oversizing a feeder in a small pond often leads to overfeeding. Undersizing in a larger pond leads to uneven distribution and limited growth impact. The goal is proportional management.
Below is a practical starting framework. These are not rigid rules. They are disciplined baselines. Always adjust based on the five to ten minute rule and visible fish response.
Small Pond (¼ – ½ Acre)
Small ponds can produce excellent growth, but they are also sensitive. Biomass builds quickly and water quality shifts faster than in larger systems.
In smaller ponds, fish density per acre is often higher. It is easy to push too hard. Start light and increase gradually only when pellets are consistently consumed within five minutes.
|
Pond Size |
Recommended Feeder Class |
Starting Feedings |
Duration Per Feeding |
Notes |
|
0.25–.5 acres |
70–125 lb directional feeder |
2 per day |
4–6 seconds |
Increase slowly if pellets are cleared rapidly. |
Medium Pond (¾ – 1.5 Acres)
This is the range where feeders truly shine. Most recreational ponds fall here, and a structured feeding program can produce noticeable forage improvements within a growing season.
|
Pond Size |
Recommended Feeder Class |
Starting Feedings |
Duration Per Feeding |
Notes |
|
0.75–1.5 acres |
70–125 lb directional feeder |
2-3 per day |
4–6 seconds |
Increase slowly if pellets are cleared rapidly. |
At this scale, two well-timed feedings per day often provide a strong balance between growth and water quality stability.
Large Pond / Small Lake (2–5+ Acres)
As pond size increases, dispersion and distribution become more important than hopper size alone. One feeder may not effectively serve the entire forage population.
|
Pond Size |
Recommended Feeder Class |
Starting Feedings |
Duration Per Feeding |
Notes |
|
2–5+ acres |
125 lb class or multiple units |
2–3 per day |
5–8 seconds |
Consider multiple feeding zones to reduce crowding. |
Larger water bodies often benefit from two feeders positioned strategically. Spreading feed across multiple zones increases participation and reduces dominance by larger individuals.
Recommended Feeding Times (Daily Schedule Guide)
Timing influences both fish response and oxygen stability. The goal is to feed when fish are metabolically active and surface conditions are stable.
Below is a practical daily feeding time framework for most warm-water ponds.
|
Time of Day |
Recommended? |
Why It Works |
Notes |
|
Early Morning (7–9 AM) |
Yes |
Fish metabolism is active and oxygen levels are typically stable |
Strong response in spring and early summer |
|
Midday (11 AM–2 PM) |
Sometimes |
Can work in moderate temps |
Use caution in extreme heat |
|
Late Afternoon / Early Evening (5–7 PM) |
Strongly Recommended |
Consistent feeding response and stable conditions |
Ideal conditioning time |
|
Night |
Not Recommended |
Limited visibility and monitoring |
Not practical for most recreational ponds |
For most ponds, two feedings per day placed in early morning and late afternoon provide excellent consistency.
Seasonal Feeding Program Example (Moderate Climate)
Seasonal adjustment matters just as much as daily timing. Fish metabolism follows water temperature, not the calendar.
|
Season |
Feeding Frequency |
Adjustment Notes |
|
Spring (warming water) |
Start 1x per day |
Increase gradually as feeding response strengthens |
|
Early Summer (60–85°F) |
2x per day |
Peak growth window. Adjust duration carefully |
|
High Heat (above 90°F surface temps) |
1–2x per day |
Monitor closely. Reduce if response weakens |
|
Fall (cooling) |
Gradually taper |
Reduce duration as metabolism slows |
|
Winter |
Shut down when fish stop feeding |
Do not feed inactive fish |
Final Thoughts: Back to the dock
I still think about that dock in Georgia sometimes.
5:45 in the evening. Beer sweating in my hand. Sunset settling in behind the trees. Fish gathering beneath the surface before the feeder even kicked on. They were anticipating it. That water had rhythm. It had structure. It had been managed intentionally.
That was not an accident.
Someone decided this lake would operate on a schedule. They installed the feeder. They adjusted it. They paid attention. They let biology do what biology does when it is given consistent inputs. And it worked.
Automatic fish feeders are not miracle machines. They do not override poor management. They do not create trophies overnight. What they do is give you leverage. They allow you to nudge your pond in a measurable direction. They turn guesswork into structure. They turn randomness into rhythm.
And there is pride in that.
There is pride in hearing the feeder spin and knowing YOU set that schedule. There is pride in watching fish show up early because they have learned the pattern YOU built. There is pride in seeing the foreheads on those bluegill grow bigger by the week. (Sorry again Payton)
But maybe the best part is simpler than all of that. It is watching your kids walk down to the dock knowing they are about to have the time of their life. Not because they got lucky, but because YOU paid attention. Because YOU invested time. Because YOU made the system better.
Those evenings add up.
The hours on the dock. The conversations. The exaggerated fishing stories. The quiet moments watching the water change colors as the sun drops and the feeder hums to life.
It’s about hours spent on the dock, evenings that feel predictable in the best possible way, and water that reflects the effort you put into it.
When done right, feeding does more than grow fish.
It builds something you can see, measure, and enjoy.
And once you experience fish showing up before dinner like clockwork, it is hard not to feel proud of the system you helped create.
A Word About Outdoors For Less (From Someone Who Works Here)
Before wrapping this up, I want to take a second to talk about Outdoors For Less, because this isn’t just the business i own and work, it’s my happy place full of people who actually hunt, fish, and use the gear we sell.
That matters more than most people realize.
At OFL, we don’t look at products as SKUs or inventory slots. We look at them the same way our customers do; as tools you’re trusting with limited time, hard-earned money, and moments that actually mean something. That mindset shows up in the brands we carry, the way we answer questions, and the way we handle things when something doesn’t go perfectly.
If you call or email us, you’re not getting a script. You’re getting someone (maybe me) who understands the gear, and has a true passion for the outdoors.
We spend a lot of time making sure the products we offer are worth standing behind.
Our commitment is simple: help passionate outdoorsmen and women make confident decisions, treat customers like friends, and make sure the gear that shows up at your door is something you can be proud of.
That’s the standard we try to live up to every day.
Give us a shout anytime at 855-223-2965, and learn more about our story HERE.
